A Different Side

I spent two months in small towns along the Ligurian coast in Italy this year. I was happy to discover a new area of Italy and escape the tourist masses that flock to Rome, Florence and Venice. Not that I wasn’t in a touristy area; thousands of Italians and some Germans flock to the area during the summer months. But this was a different type of tourist; they weren’t rushing to see the sites nor were they taking pictures of every moment of their vacation. They were there to relax and enjoy the atmosphere of a small, beach town. Though I had traveled to Italy twice before, I felt that this trip I finally understood Italy as a country rather than as a tourist destination and I relearned what it was like to “settle” in one place.

Pietra Ligure, Italy August 2011

I belonged.
The towns were small enough that within a week, I knew how to get around. I knew where to go for groceries, bread, meat, and delicious gelato. I left my apartment with only my keys and wallet in hand most evenings to stroll through town. I didn’t need a guidebook or camera. People recognized me and said hello. I belonged.

The real Italy.
Living with an Italian family for three weeks, introduced me to a new way of life. I saw how they cooked, washed their laundry, played games and interacted at the dinner table. Though some things confused me (why do you need to wash your floors every day?), I understood that it was a different culture and I was the visitor. I shouldn’t change their ways and though I adapted to fit in, I didn’t need to change everything about myself. I ate the skins on peaches, they didn’t.

Small towns.
Even though the towns I lived in barely had 10,000 residents each, there were beautiful buildings, churches 500 years old, and delicious food. The best pizza and gelato I have ever had was in Pietra Ligure. I discovered my love of pesto.

Language.
It was important to me to learn Italian while I was in Italy, but I also found that it was a great opportunity for people to practice their English. Many Italians have studied English at some point, but there were very few chances to use it in a town with mainly Italian tourists. Some people were very keen on talking to me in English. It was a great way to meet new people and learn about life in Italy. However, some days I was tired of not understanding anything. I didn’t speak any Italian when I arrived and even though I understood more and more as the weeks went by, some days I just wanted to speak with someone who completely understood me.

Connections.
Most of the tourists were Italian families or retired couples and the towns’ economies were based around tourism. There weren’t many people my age to hang out with; most evenings I did nothing. I would wander around town by myself for an hour, grab gelato, and then go back to my apartment to work or play on my computer. I’m a social person and I missed hanging out with fellow travelers or people with similar interests. I left town most weekends so that I could visit larger cities and meet up with other travelers.

Boredom.
The beaches were great and I enjoy lying on the beach every now and then, but for the most part, I’m not a beach type of gal. When I go on vacation, I like to go hiking, snorkeling, biking, museum hopping or anything that will get me moving. After a week of going to the beach, I was bored. I didn’t know what to do. There was nothing else to do in the town, no museums or galleries and the library was extremely small. Tourists came to the town to sit on the beach to relax. My idea of relaxing is biking 40 miles. I’m glad I had the opportunity to experience this type of vacation, but I know I wouldn’t choose to spend a lot of time in a beach town again.

Loano, Italy August 2011

We don’t all have the opportunity to spend two months in one city or even in one country, but I think it’s something that really helps you understand a different culture. If I had only ever visited the major cities in Italy, I would never have understood how Italians shop, clean or cook. My Italian cooking is definitely better now!